Thursday, September 13, 2012

Secrets to French Napoleons

Napoleons are made of layers of flaky puff pastry filled with rich pastry cream, cut into small rectangles, and topped with chocolate and vanilla icings. It may look complicated, but its two main componentspuff pastry and pastry creamare actually quite basic.

But there is one major difference with the way the puff pastry is treated for Napoleons as opposed to other pastries: Its weighted down as it bakes. This prevents the pastry from rising too muchyou want the layers that make up each slice to be flat and dense, not puffy and domed. The best way to do this is to place a second sheet pan over the pastry and then put a large ovenproof baking dish on top. This keeps it condensed, providing you with flat sheets to use when building your impressive, three-layer sweet.

PREPARING THE PASTRY

1. Roll the puff pastry into a 16 by 12-inch rectangle, about inch thick, between 2 sheets of parchment paper. Remove the top sheet of parchment and prick the pastry with a fork every 2 inches.

2. Replace the top sheet of parchment and slide the dough onto a rimmed baking sheet. Place a second rimmed baking sheet on top of the dough and weight the baking sheet down with a large ovenproof dish. Bake the pastry as directed, rotating the baking sheet halfway through baking, and removing the weight, the top baking sheet, and top sheet of parchment for the final 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Cut the cooled pastry lengthwise in half with a serrated knife and trim the edges as necessary to make them straight. Cut each pastry half crosswise into 3 rectangles.

4. Cut each rectangle crosswise into 3 small rectangles (you will have a total of 18 rectangles). Each Napoleon will contain 3 rectangles of pastry stacked on top of one another, with pastry cream spread between the layers.

GLAZING AND ASSEMBLING

1. Spread the chocolate glaze evenly over the top of 6 rectangles of pastry and lay them on a wire rack set over a sheet of parchment paper (for easy cleanup). Drizzle a thin stream of the vanilla glaze crosswise over the chocolate glaze. Run the tip of a small knife or toothpick lengthwise through the icing to make a design. Let the icing set, about 20 minutes.

2. After layering the remaining rectangles of pastry with the pastry cream to make 6 individual portions, top each portion with a glazed pastry rectangle and serve.

Find this and other great recipes in The Americas Test Kitchen Family Baking Book.


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Thursday, September 6, 2012

Secrets to Southern-Style Skillet Cornbread

Although their ingredient lists may look similar, the cornbreads of the North and South are as different as Boston and Birmingham. For one thing, white is the cornmeal of choice in Southern-style cornbread. But a few blind taste tests proved that yellow cornmeal, the choice of Northern cornbread lovers, provided more potent corn flavor.

But one concession we couldnt make was the classic Southern cornbread cooking vessel: a scorching hot, greased cast-iron skillet, which gives it a seriously crunchy, golden crust. Using a combination of oil and butter for greasing the pan (as well as in the batter) strikes the perfect balance of smoke point and flavorthe oil can be heated in the skillet to a high temperature without burning, while the butter adds good flavor.

HOW TO MAKE SOUTHERN-STYLE SKILLET CORNBREAD

1. Preheat the skillet: Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet on the middle rack of a 450-degree oven until it is hot, about 10 minutes. If you dont preheat the pan, the crust of the bread will be soft and pale rather than brown and crunchy.

2. Toast the cornmeal: Toast the cornmeal in the oven (while the skillet is heating up) until it is fragrant and lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Toasting the cornmeal before making the batter deepens its flavor dramatically.

3. Soften the toasted cornmeal with buttermilk: Mix the warm toasted cornmeal with the buttermilk and let it sit for a few minutes to soften before making the batter. If you skip this step, the cornmeal will retain its hard, crunchy texture in the finished bread.

4. Use oil and butter: Add the oil to the hot skillet and continue to heat in the oven until just smoking. When the oil is hot, carefully swirl in the butter to melt. Most of this hot fat is added to the batter, but some of it is left in the pan to ensure a crisp crust and flawless release of the bread after its baked. The combination of oil and butter is great because the oil can get very hot without burning, while the butter adds good flavor.

5. Add the batter while the skillet is hot: The hot skillet is what gives this bread its crunchy crust, so dont let it cool off before adding the batter.

6. Cool the bread in the skillet, then flip it out: When removing the cornbread from the oven, use good potholders because the skillet is heavy and the handle will be very hot. Let the bread cool in the skillet for 5 minutes, then flip it out onto a wire rack. If you try to flip the bread out before cooling, it will crumble apart.

Find this and other great recipes in The Americas Test Kitchen Family Baking Book.


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Thursday, August 30, 2012

Secrets to Perfect Strata

Whats quicker than quiche, sturdier than a souffl, and combines the best qualities of both? The answer is strata, a layered casserole that in its most basic form comprises bread, eggs, cheese, and milk or cream. Layered among them are flavorful fillings that provide both substance and character, and the result is, in essence, a golden brown, puffed, hearty, savory bread pudding.

But even after we were happy with the flavors of the stratawe settled on spinach and Gruyerewe were having problems with dry pockets of bread. To get the custard to fully saturate the bread, we topped the two components with a fairly heavy weight before baking. This gave us bread that was coated but not mushyand made for a strata that was truly out of this world.

ASSEMBLING THE STRATA

1. Layer the bread and filling in the baking dish and top with the cheese.

2. Pour the egg mixture evenly over the layers.

3. Cover the surface flush with plastic wrap and place a large zipper-lock bag filled with 2 pounds of sugar on top of the wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Our Cooks Illustrated recipe for Breakfast Strata with Spinach and Gruyere will be free to access until September 6th.


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Thursday, August 23, 2012

Secrets to Perfect Calzones

A calzone is made by enclosing the components of a pizza in a crisp crust. Sounds perfect, right? It isexcept when the tasty little pouch of pizza is compromised by a faulty seal or leaky filling. To make sure you seal the calzones properly, brush the exposed edges with egg wash, then fold the dough over, leaving a small border on the bottom crust exposed, then pull it up and over the top layer, pressing it together firmly. This sealed crust cooks through, looks great, and prevents any calzone catastrophes.

MAKING CALZONES

1. After rolling out the dough into a 12-inch circle, mound the ricotta cheese over half the dough, leaving a 1-inch border at the edge.

2. Brush the bottom edge of the dough with egg wash.

3. Gently fold the dough over the filling, leaving a -inch border of the bottom crust uncovered.

4. Lightly press the dough to be flush to the edge of the cheese at the seam, then press the dough edges firmly to seal them together.

5. Working from one end of the seam to the other, gently pull the bottom layer of dough over the tip of an index finger and press to seal.

6. Using a sharp knife, cut 5 slits, about 2 inches long, diagonally across the top of each calzone. Make sure to cut through only the top layer of dough and not completely through the calzone.

Find this and other great recipes in The Americas Test Kitchen Family Baking Book.


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Thursday, August 16, 2012

Secrets to Fig Bars

Fresh figs are hard to find year-round, but our hankering for fig bars isnt limited to certain months (or satisfied by overly cakey Fig Newtons). Fortunately for usand our cravingsdried figs baked up just as well as fresh in our bars, as long as they got a quick pre-treatment. Simply pureeing sweet, thin-skinned Turkish and Calimyrna figs made for terribly dry bars, so we rehydrated them first. Water did little for the flavor and orange juice and wine were both too acidic, but apple juice gave us a slight sweetness and subtle flavor boost that highlighted all that the figs had to offer.

MAKING FIG BARS

1. After mixing the dough and spreading most of it inside a pan lined with a greased foil sling, top it with a piece of greased parchment paper and smooth the crust into an even layer with the bottom of a measuring cup. Remove the parchment before parbaking the crust. Meanwhile, roll out the remaining dough (used for the top crust) between 2 sheets of greased parchment paper into an 8-inch square and stash it in the freezer until the last step.

2. Spread the fig filling into an even layer over the baked crust.

3. Remove the top crust from the freezer, unwrap, and lay on top of the filling. Press lightly on the dough to adhere. Finish baking.

Find this and other great recipes in The Americas Test Kitchen Family Baking Book.


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Thursday, August 9, 2012

Secrets to French Baguettes

When we set out to create a simple baguette recipe that could be prepared in a home kitchen, the test kitchen was divided. Everyone agreed that it should have a deep golden crust and an open, airy texture. Where we parted ways was on the question of whether you could actually create an outstanding baguette at home in a regular oven. Some were skeptical, but we were determined.

During the development process, we did find that there were just some things that couldnt be simplified. First, to get the right flavor we needed to use a sponge. This mixture of flour, water, and yeast develops a full range of unique flavors that improves the longer it sits. We also had to put in some work to find the best oven temperature. Unlike many other rustic breads, baguettes cannot be baked in a super-hot oven, or else they form a crust before fully expanding. Putting baguettes in a 500-degree oven and then immediately lowering the oven to 425 degrees gave us a perfectly crisp crust and moist crumband won over the skeptics.

STEP 1 Create Sponge

Create a spongea small mixture of flour, water, and yeastthat lends the bread its mildly sour and nutty flavors.

STEP 2 Allow Sponge to Rise

The key to using our sponge is to let it rise for about 2 hours then wait for it to fall (about 4 hours) before using.

STEP 3 Wait for Sponge to Fall

The fall indicates that the yeast is active and ready to go. Once the sponge has fallen, it can be held for up to 24 hours at room temperature before using.

STEP 4 Mix Dough

Combine the flour, yeast, and water in a stand mixer until the dough comes together, then let it sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.

STEP 5 Add More Flour (or Dont)

If the dough sticks to the sides of the bowl after several minutes of kneading, it is too wet and you need to add more flour. With the mixer running, add the flour, 2 tablespoons at a time, allowing 30 to 60 seconds between additions. Dough with the right ratio of water to flour should clear the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom.

STEP 6 Start Turning

After the dough has risen for about an hour, its time to start turning it. Slide a plastic bench scraper or rubber spatula under one side of the dough; gently lift and fold a third of the dough toward the center.

STEP 7 Turn on the Other Side

Repeat the previous step with the opposite side of the dough.

STEP 8 Fold into a Rough Square

Finally, fold the dough in half, perpendicular to the first folds. The dough shape should be a rough square. Cover, let rise for 30 minutes, then repeat the turning process. Cover and rise about 30 minutes longer, until dough has doubled in size.

STEP 9 Form into Rectangle

Working with one piece of dough at a time, gently pat the dough into a rough 8 by 6-inch rectangle, with the long edge towards you.

STEP 10 Fold Bottom into Center

Gently fold the bottom third of the dough up to the center and press to seal.

STEP 11 Fold and Seal

Gently fold the bottom of the dough up to the top and press to seal.

STEP 12 Create a Crease

Using the side of your floured hand, create a large crease down the middle of the dough.

STEP 13 Pinch Top and Bottom Together

Working from one end of the loaf to the other, pinch the top and bottom of the dough together securely.

STEP 14 Roll and Stretch

Gently roll the baguette back and forth to stretch it into an even 15-inch-long baguette, about 2 inches wide. Roll the loaf seam side down and transfer to the parchment-lined baking sheet.

STEP 15 Slash the Top

Cut four inch-deep slashes along the width of the dough. This creates an escape route for the steam trapped inside the bread as it bakes.


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Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Secrets to Perfect Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

As soon as canned pineapple became readily available in the early 1900s, the pineapple evolved from a once-exotic symbol of hospitality into the latest food trend. But it really came into its own when it appeared on top of the pineapple upside-down cake. The recipe was based on the simple technique of cooking fruit in sugar and butter in a heavy skillet, topping it with cake batter, then baking it. To serve, the cake was turned upside down.

Sounds simple enough. But timing is key when unmolding an upside-down cake. When upended hot from the oven, the fruit layer is still too juicy and fluid, so it slides untidily over the cake layer. But if the cake cools for too long, the fruit will stick to the pan. The trick is cooling it for the perfect amount of time: 10 minutes. This is long enough to allow the fruit layer to firm up a bit so it adheres to the cakebut short enough so the cake will be easy to release from the pankeeping the glistening, caramelized, deep amber topping right where it should be.

1. Make the caramel right in the cake pan: Melt 4 tablespoons butter in the cake pan in the oven, then stir in the brown sugar. This mixture will turn to a glossy caramel as the cake bakes.

2. Arrange the raw fruit in the pan: Lay the fruit evenly on top of the butterbrown sugar mixture. The fruit will cook and soften in the oven while the cake bakes.

3. Spread the cake batter over the fruit: Dollop the batter evenly over the raw fruit, then smooth the top gently so as not to disturb the layers of fruit and caramel.

4. Unmold the cake while warm: Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then lay a platter over the top of the cake pan and gently invert the cake onto the platter. Let the cake release itself from the pan, which will take about 1 minute. By letting the cake naturally release, youll ensure that it will release in one pieceif you try to force it, by tapping and shaking the pan, it might come out in chunks.


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Secrets to Blueberry Cobbler

Good cobblers may be no more than a fleet of tender biscuits on a sea of sweet fruit, but the good versions can hold their own against fancier desserts. Best of all, they come together in just a few quick steps, then are ready to be dished up hot, accompanied by an all-important scoop of vanilla ice cream.

But for such a simple dessert, only a couple missteps could lead you to a runny filling with doughy biscuits. The key to getting the filling and topping to come together perfectly is cooking them separately. Parbaking the biscuits prevents them from becoming soggy on the bottom once theyre placed atop the fruit, while parbaking the filling firms it up and ensures both components are done at the same time. After short, separate stints in the oven, the two components are baked through together for a no-fuss, summery dessert.

1. Make drop biscuits: The key to great drop biscuits is to mix cold buttermilk with melted butter until it clumpsthis clumpy butter gives the biscuits a flaky texture.

2. Parbake the biscuits: Bake the biscuits in a 400-degree oven just long enough for them to puff up nicely and get lightly browned on the bottom, about 10 minutes. Parbaking the biscuits prevents them from becoming soggy on the bottom when theyre placed on top of the fruit filling. But if you overbake them here, they will become stiff and difficult to fit into the baking dish.

3. Parbake the fruit filling: After parbaking the biscuits, parbake the fruit filling in a covered 9-inch deep-dish glass pie plate just until the fruit is hot and has released its juices, 20 to 25 minutes. Giving the fruit a head start in the oven ensures that when the cobbler is assembled, the biscuits and filling will be perfectly done at the same time.

4. Put it all together: When the fruit has finished parbaking, remove the foil and stir the fruit gently to distribute the heat evenly. Lay the parbaked biscuits on top, placing 7 around the edge of the dish and 1 in the middle.

5. Bake until bubbly: Bake the cobbler, uncovered, until the biscuits are browned and the filling is bubbly. If the cobbler is pulled from the oven before it is bubbling, the filling will not have thickened and will be watery. These bubbling juices can, however, bubble over the rim of the dishto prevent a sticky mess on the bottom of the oven, we bake the cobbler on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet.

6. Cool it: Be sure to let the cobbler cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Not only will this prevent you from burning the roof of your mouth, but as the fruit juices cool, they will continue to thicken into a glossy sauce.


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Secrets to Making Turtle Brownies

Chocolate and caramel have an undeniable affinity. Add pecans to that union and youve struck gold. These nut-studded nuggets of chewy, caramel-filled chocolate, affectionately dubbed turtles, are found in bakeries and coffeehouses from coast to coast.

But replicating a bakery-quality turtle brownie at home is tough, especially because most recipes call for jarred caramel sauce or melted store-bought caramel candies, which give the brownies insipid flavor and a waxy texture. Simple homemade caramelchewy and gooey, viscous enough to hold its formis the only way to go. Drizzle some of it into the brownie batter and reserve the rest to pour over the top (the pecans adhere nicely) for the ultimate in turtle perfection.

Making Caramel


1. Dont let sugar stick to the pan sides: Pour the water into a medium saucepan and then pour the sugar into the center of the pan (dont let it hit the pan sides). Gently stir the sugar with a clean spatula to wet it thoroughly. If the sugar hits the sides of the pan it will stick and not dissolve into the water, eventually causing the caramel to crystallize and ruin the sauce. If you see any sugar crystals sticking to the sides of the pan, brush them back into the water with a very clean wet pastry brush.


2. Dont stir at first: Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, without stirring, until the sugar has dissolved completely and the liquid has a faint golden color. It is during this part of the caramel making that the sugar is most likely to crystallize. These crystals are caused by a combination of undissolved sugar granules or other foreign bits that have fallen into the syrup and agitation. By not stirring, you reduce both the amount of agitation and the chance that any foreign bits will fall into the pot.


3. Watch the color: Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the caramel has a dark amber color. Caramel cooks very quickly once it starts to show color, so keep your eye on it (dont walk away from the stove). Turning down the heat and stirring the caramel (stirring is OK at this point) ensure that it will brown evenly.


4. Add the cream slowly off the heat: If you are making sauce, remove the pan from the heat and slowly whisk the cream into the hot caramel until combined. The caramel is very hot at this point, and stirring in the cold cream will create lots of steam and vigorous bubblesbe sure to remove the pan from the heat and add the cream very slowly. Also, keep your face and hands away from the pan.

Making Turtle Brownies

1. Spread half of the brownie batter evenly in the prepared baking pan, then drizzle with a scant cup warm caramel.

2. Repeat with the remaining brownie batter and another scant cup of the caramel. Using the tip of a butter knife, swirl the caramel and brownie batter together.

3. After the brownies are baked and cooled, reheat the remaining caramel in the microwave, then pour and spread evenly over the brownies.

4. Remove the brownies from the pan, remove the foil, and cut into 25 brownies. Press a pecan half into each brownie.


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